River Drift Snorkelling - Port Douglas

Travellers Tales
Friday, June 06, 2008

It's a steamy morning in the Tropical North Queensland rainforest and I stand in a waist-deep pool at the edge of the Mossman River. Beside our small group, led by experienced outdoor instructors Barney and Michaela, the river is bubbling and tumbling, swelled by recent rains.

I am still half-asleep and too self-conscious about the flaws of my body revealed by my snug wetsuit to be fully concentrating on Barney's directions: "Just relax and let the current take you," I think he says. "And try to stick to the deeper part of the river".

Happily, the rather more sveltely wetsuited and aptly named Michaela Flood is ready to demonstrate. She launches herself head-down and snorkel-up into the rapids and swims hard across them, like Lara Croft. Then, reaching mid-river, she lets the water carry her, drifting swiftly but gracefully downstream and pulling up about 100 metres away near the opposite riverbank.

"So we're aiming for that calm section which is known as an eddy," continues Barney. "And don't worry. We'll grab you if you're going to overshoot."

Before I know it, Barney is summoning me for my first attempt at river-drift snorkelling.

I push myself into the white water, angle my mask into the swirl beneath and start to flail my arms and legs like an out-of-control ceiling fan. At first all I can see is the riverbed flashing past below, all I can hear is the swoosh of churning water and although I am trying to travel headfirst the river is twirling me around like a twig.

After a few seconds, however, I remember Barney's advice and stop struggling. Almost immediately, my body rights itself and I am carried smoothly downstream. I raise my head occasionally to check that I am still on course and as I near the eddy, I manoeuvre myself clear of the current, coming to an ungainly halt by digging my heels into the sandy riverbed.

During the next 90 minutes, we zigzag down the clear tropical river, spotting big river perch and freshwater turtles as we snorkel. Pausing often we take in the jungle scenery, bright-breasted birds singing in the trees and fluorescent butterflies fluttering by.

Finally, having earned our drift snorkelling P-plates, we float serenely down the Mossman on our backs, gazing up into the glistening green canopy of overhanging trees and their accompanying epiphites. It is a wonderful way to start the day and an exhilarating but intimate experience of the river and surrounding forest.